What can be written about Ronnie Killen that wouldn’t sound redundant? We are familiar with his celebrated creativity when it comes to Steaks, Burgers, and BBQ. With his new Killen’s in the Heights (welcome to the Inner Loop), Mr. Killen can add Southern Comfort to his range of culinary wins without repeating himself.
Using his Grandmother’s recipes, Killen highlights Fried Chicken, Meatloaf, and Chicken Fried Steak on the menu. No comfort food restaurant would be complete without a hamburger, and I was not disappointed with their Cafeteria Burger. A fluffy brioche bun sits atop the succulent juicy hand-formed patty. The meat takes centerstage making this burger a near masterpiece. Perfectly cooked to my medium order, with cheese enveloping the patty on all sides, the flavors hit home with a nostalgic taste of burgers from a by-gone era. Nothing fancy – just a darn good hamburger. The sturdy toasted bun was a perfect match, staying in-tact with each bite of the char-encrusted patty. Savoring the flavor, I found no need to add the fresh garnish (lettuce, tomato, onion, sliced dill pickles) on the side. The accompanying hand-cut fries, lightly salted and crispy, complimented the overall subtle sweetness of the burger. After eating the burger, my palate was happy and content. Some burgers are definitely worth waiting for.
Currently, Killen’s is open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday on a reservations-only basis. They will soon be expanding their hours to include lunch and weekend brunch. Observing COVID-19 practices, the tables are nicely spread out with a maximum of 6 at select tables. The noise level is moderate, and I was able to carry on a conversation with Ronnie while waiting for my burger. How lucky we are to have such a great culinary genius in our own backyard, and how fortunate we are to be able to enjoy his talent in the Heights.
Cheers to Eating More Burgers!